Phi Ta Khon ghost festival in Dan Sai, Loei
Masked ghosts, music and merit-making in a small Loei town. When Phi Ta Khon happens and how to visit.
Phi Ta Khon is held in Dan Sai, a small district of Loei province in northern Isan, as part of the Bun Luang merit-making festival. It usually takes place over three days in June or July, with the exact dates chosen each year by the local spirit mediums.
What happens
The festival is linked to the story of Prince Vessantara, the Buddha’s last life before enlightenment; when he returned to his city, the celebrations were so lively that they woke the spirits, who joined the procession. Today, local people dress as ghosts in colourful costumes made from rags and wear large masks carved from coconut-tree bases and decorated with paint and long noses. Parades, dancing and music fill the streets, followed by religious ceremonies at Wat Phon Chai.
Tips
- Dan Sai is small; accommodation fills up quickly, so book early or stay in Loei town.
- The Phi Ta Khon Museum at Wat Phon Chai displays masks and explains the festival.
- Loei is cooler and greener than much of Isan, so it combines well with a visit to Chiang Khan on the Mekong or Phu Kradueng National Park.